Holidays in Sinai, teaching practice, goodbyes, oh my!

Me on my balcony, last day in Alex

My five weeks in Egypt have come and gone far too quickly. As usual, it's not so much the place, but the people who've made this time so memorable. 15 people from all over the world, living in one apartment complex, learning to be English teachers and hoping to familiarize themselves with the people and culture of a pretty complex place. You can't help but become an insane little mini-family.

Two weeks ago a group of seven of us hopped on a bus and took the 12 hour ride to Sinai. We had a four day weekend due to the end of Ramadan and Eid, so we had to take advantage of the time and get away from Alexandria.

Our first stop was the little town of St. Katherine where the Mt. Sinai of Moses is supposedly located. Up to 1400 people per day hike to the top of the mountain to watch the sunrise and in many cases pray. We left our hostel at 2 am and hiked through the night to make it in time for the sunrise. Night hiking is something I'd never done before and it was a pretty unique experience. No sound but our footsteps on the rocks and dirt and no light except from the stars and our small flashlights. The stars were absolutely incredible. The band of the Milky Way was very distinct across the sky and I saw two incredible shooting stars.

The hike was challenging towards the end, but we made it to the top in time to see the sun start peeking out over the barren, rocky mountains. On this particular day we shared the peak with around 700 other hikers and pilgrims. After the sunrise, we began the long hike down to St. Katherine's Monastery. Being so secluded and off the beaten path, St. Katherine's is said to be the oldest functioning Monastery that's never been attacked or harmed in any way.

Sunrise over Mt. Sinai

The hostel that we stayed at in St. Katherine's was great and we did our fair amount of lounging in their tented sitting areas, but after a few days in the heat of these desert mountains, we were ready to head for the sea.

Hostel in St. Katherine

Next stop, Dahab, a seaside tourist-infested wonderland of hotels, restaurants and bars. We found a cheap place right on the water and spent the majority of our time laying around in the cozy seating area of the hostel's restaurant. Laying, eating, drinking, smoking hookah- doesn't get much more relaxing.

Another highlight of our two days in Dahab was snorkeling in the Blue Hole. One of the most famous diving/snorkeling spots in the world, the Blue hole is a 127 meter deep hole just off the coast surrounded by the most incredible coral reefs and sea creatures. It was my first time snorkeling and I when I put my head under the water for the first time, I was in absolute awe of what lie just below the surface. If only I had an underwater camera!

The Blue Hole

Vacation over, back in Alexandria we started our official teaching practice. Each student taught five hours alone and two with a partner. Our schedule completely changed for teaching practice, so our beach days unfortunately came to an end. The students who come to our classes are all volunteers and classes lasted from 3:00-9:00 pm. Depending on our class time, we picked from three different departure and return times. With class prep, teaching and observing other teachers, we ended up at TEFL for at least 7 hours per day, often times more. While it was nice to be able to sleep in a bit, I did miss our daily evening swims.

Hanging out at TEFL

For me, the teaching practice was fairly stress free. I've had experience creating lesson plans and teaching all kinds of students and the whole thing just comes fairly easily to me. I guess I'm just fortunate to have found a career path that I both like and am good at! For many of my classmates, though, this was the first experience they had with any kind of teaching. There was stress, tears, 10 minute classes, blank stares, praising of nonsense and more. In the end though, everyone got through it and I think came out with more respect for all of the great teachers out there. There's no question that it's hard work!

Only 7 of our original 17 are staying in Alexandria for the optional 6 week teaching internship and intensive Arabic course. As all good things must come to an end, we spent the last 3 days saying goodbye and wishing people well as the headed off to their next adventure. It's really quite incredible how dependent you can become on others in such a short period of time.

Going away celebration

Thanks to James, Amanda, Zane, Laura, Laura, Danielle, Read, Simon, Jules, Oscar, J.P., Faizal, Mohammed and Sara for an incredible month! And a special shout out to security guard Hamidou who made me delicious tea.

Now it's Cairo until Saturday, then off to Morocco!

Settling in Alexandria

What a week!

I left Detroit on Friday the 20th of August on a plane to JFK. At JFK, I hopped over to EgyptAir for an 11 hour direct flight to Cairo. I was pumped and only nervous about one thing- finding my way, alone, from Cairo to Alexandria. As luck would have it, I sat on the plane next to a man who lives in New Jersey, but is originally from Alexandria and was on his way to visit family.

While a bit too chatty for my liking on the plane, this very kind man offered to let me follow him to Alexandria. At the airport, I bought my visa from a bank, grabbed my luggage and exchanged some money before catching the bus. The bus ride was long, but I was absolutely exhausted so it was a great opportunity to get a little sleep.

Once I got to the bus station in Alexandria, I was supposed to call the folks from TEFL to pick me up, but it was almost time for lftor (breakfast- it is Ramadan and everyone is fasting!). I did not have easy access to a phone and was also afraid that if I did call, I'd have to wait for a ride until after lftor so I decided to hop in a taxi and hope for the best.

About 30 minutes, 70 egyptian pounds and one stop for an english speaker later, I arrived at the TEFL accommodations. I was very pleasantly surprised by our apartments (pictures to come in a later post). I share a two bedroom place with Amanda from Botswana. Amanda has already completed her 4 week certificate course, but stuck around to do an internship and study Arabic. It's great to have a roomie who knows the ropes!

Amanda and me

The next day (Sunday- first day of the week), we had our first day of classes. The apartments are about 40 mins away from where we have class, so we all hop in some vans at 9 am. Classes begin at 10 and go until 4:30.

The school in Stanley, Alexandria

The other students in the class are super cool. Mostly Americans, but we do have three people from England, one from Holland, one from Venezuela, one from Saudi Arabia and one Egyptian. 17 people total- you do the math. Classes are interesting and even challenging (grammar!). Aside from grammar, we're learning some Phonology (the study of sounds in a language), classroom management, lesson planning and more. To pass the course, I'll have to pass a phonology test, a grammar test, complete various assignments and do 6 hours of teaching practice.

We've gotten through one week so far and have already established a good routine. Morning classes are followed by a 10 minute walk to find a delicious and cheap lunch (falafel or fuul sandwiches for less than 20 cents), then afternoon classes, then a swim in the Mediterranean Sea when we get back to the apartments. Shower after the swim, dinner, then internet and bed. A few nights we've also gone out to a nearby bar where they serve two types of beer (Heineken and Egyptian Stella) and shots of Gin (sick!).

Swimming in the Sea at sunset.

For more photos of the Mediterranean Sea, see my photo album on FB here:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2466003&id=12102478&l=5188b3fddd

Last night (our equivalent of Friday night) a group of us decided to stay downtown after class and try to take in some of the sights. We were dropped off at the Library of Alexandria. This is a pretty incredible building designed to look like the sun rising out of the sea. Around the outside, words are written in every known language on earth. Very impressive and we were pumped to go inside. Too bad it had closed early due to Ramadan- drat! More on that when I go back.

Library of Alexandria

From the library, we walked a few miles down the corniche (street along the water). It was a great walk with lots to see and photograph. As we got towards the end of the street, we took a turn inland and got to see the real heart of Alexandria. Small streets lined with markets and decorated with sparkles for Ramadan, people bustling all around us. It was almost time for the call to prayer (signaling time to break the fast) so food was cooking and everyone was getting excited to eat. Some guys where I bought a nighty for 15 pounds (less than 3 dollars) invited us to break the fast with them, but we continued on.

On the streets during lftur

After a few other failed attempts to get food (one place was full, another out of food) we were led through some crazy streets and came out at a restaurant described by our guidebooks as having the best seafood in Alexandria. The books were not kidding- this food was absolutely incredible. You pay per kilo of fish and the price includes a variety of salads and water. We choose three huge sea bass (three kilos!) and they basically slice it open, season it and add red and hot peppers before throwing it on the grill. Absolutely the most delicious fish I've ever tasted.

For more pictures of downtown Alexandria, check out my FB photo album:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2466670&id=12102478&l=1963ccd7a1

That brings me to today or our equivalent of saturday. I slept in and have been taking it easy this morning, but am hoping to go into town this afternoon. More to come!

The Whole Story - Part 3

The End?

As the end of my service approached, I had to plan my next move. Mohamed and I didn't talk about my departure much, but there was an understanding that I was leaving and he was staying. Due to immigration and visa policies, there were only two options if I wanted to pursue the relationship. I could stay, or I could bring him back to the States on a fiance visa. With a fiance visa, we'd have to get married within three months of entering the states.

Mohamed's first time bowling, one of our last excursions

At 24 and pretty close to broke, I didn't feel in a position to get married and support someone else. I had no real experience and didn't know how long it was going to take to get a job. The thought of bringing Mohamed home with me was way too overwhelming to consider and frankly, I didn't want to get married! I also didn't want to stay. As much as I loved that country, I had been gone for two years and was excited to go home, see family and friends and try to make a new life.

So we spent a few last days together in the capital and said our goodbyes. It was possibly the hardest thing I've ever done, but at that time I knew it was the right move. I left.

Back in the states, I did my best to re-adapt. I got a job, found an apartment, dated. For the past two years I've lived a good life, but Mohamed was never far from my thoughts. I never quite new what to say when we'd talk on the phone and he'd say he missed me. I missed him too and I'd tell him that, but we'd just end up in the same spot during the next call.

Then, a few months ago I was at dinner with a friend here in Madison and we started talking about relationships. A comment she made during that dinner got me thinking about what I was doing with my life. Why had I left him? My original reasons no longer held true, so what was keeping me from going back?

The longer I thought about going back and pursuing our relationship, the more my mood lifted and the more it seemed like the right thing to do. So after a few months of pondering and running the potential scenarios through my mind, I called Mohamed and asked if he wanted me to come back. He did!

So, now I go back to see where things lead. I'm happy to report that things are working very much in my favor and as the pieces come together, I can't help but feel more and more strongly that I'm headed in the right direction. I haven't been this confident that i'm making the right move since I left two and half years ago!

As for the logistics, I leave from Detroit on August 20th for Alexandria, Egypt where I'll attend a certification program for Teaching English as a Second Language (TESL). Then, with my certificate in hand, it's off to the capital where I begin working as an English teacher on September 27th. It's a pretty good gig and I look forward to enjoying the country on a bit more than my PC stipend. I'll even have breaks long enough to travel!

My home starting September 25

I hope to keep this blog a bit more active this second time around, so be sure to look for updates. I also really appreciate everyone's comments and encouragement, so be sure to keep them coming!