travels in turkey

After finally and officially leaving Morocco after 27 months of service, you could say it was time for a vacation. I needed some time to adjust to the departure, to miss morocco like crazy, and to really feel ready to come back to the States.

My friend Mandy and I thought that Turkey would be a great place to end our Peace Corps chapter, and begin our new one.


Turkey is a pretty incredible country. It's 99 percent Muslim, but it's secular government creates an entirely different atmosphere. I always thought Morocco was pretty liberal, and in a way it is, but it has nothing on Turkey. In Istanbul especially, you could have convinced me were in in the Middle of Western Europe.


This is me at the Topkapi Palace overlooking the Bosphorus River. Istanbul is located on 3 different banks, and is the bridge between Europe and Asia. It's no wonder this land was so highly sought after throughout history. And you can see remnents from just about every empire somewhere in Istanbul or throughout the country.

In the Grand Bazaar i found the most similarities to Morocco. Merchants yelling for us to buy things and trying to pull us in to their shops. And of course the bargaining. I'd like to thank Morocco for my great skill at this and for the good prices I received here!

This is the front of the Aya Sofia. It was built a Church by the Emporer Justinian (i think) and later converted to a mosque by a Sultan of the Ottoman Empire. Now it is a museum and the inside is just as incredible as the outside!



Wow! I've always wanted a Genuine Fake Watch!!





This is a shot of the Blue Mosaue, another incredibly famous building in Istanbul.



Inside the Blue Mosque. This mosque is actually still open for prayer. Tourists wait until after the time of prayer to go in and look around. so beautiful!



This is probably the best meal i ate in Turkey. It was incredibly good! I know what you're thinking, it looks so simple! This was eaten upon our arrival to the beautiful Selcuk in southwest Turkey.



In Selcuk you can find the tomb of St. John located in the ruins of his Basilica. The story goes that after the death of Jesus, St. John and Mary came to the ancient city of Ephesus to spread the gospel. We're pretty convinced that this dog (nicknamed Dudley) is actually the spirit of St. John still around to stand gaurd at the tomb.



These are the ancient ruins of Ephesus. A once thriving city during the Roman and many other empires. It was pretty incredible.



These are the toilets of the ancient city. Apparently they weren't very shy.

This is the incredible well preserved facade of the Library. It's absolutely huge and once held 10,000 scrolls. We took shelter here when it started to downpour.

After the rain we walked to the remains of Mary's church. I have never seen such an incredibly brilliant rainbow in my life.

This is the alter of Mary's church.

This region is called Kapadokya and is located in the center of Turkey. Due to volcanic eruptions, the entire region looks like it could be the moon and people once lived inside the rocks. Our hotel room was a cave built into the side of one.

This structure was once a Monestary. Complete with kitchen, church, and tons of other rooms.

Here we saw the Whirling Dervishes, and some traditional turkish dance.

During my two weeks in Turkey I took over 500 pictures, so obviously this post doesnt do it justice! But I hope you enjoyed a small taste of the incredible things I was lucky to see.

As for now, I'm back in America and ready to enjoy the Holidays with friends and family after missing two during my service. Then the job search really begins and where i'll end up....who knows.

the departure

my last week in taf was insanely busy despite the fact that i stopped working. making the rounds to see all my friends was a bit exhausting and i was constantly on the go with the visits, giving away my stuff, paying bills and more. and of course anytime that i said goodbye to someone, they would say 'but i'll see you again before you go right?' Enchallah [god willing] i would say. but of course it would be impossible to see all of these people again. no one likes goodbyes.

my last 24 hours in town were actually quite boring up until the very end. i thought i would really come full circle by spending the last night at my host family's house. so i said goodbye to my apartment and made my way across town with all of my stuff. the exact opposite of what i did just 22 months prior.

when i arrived, no one was home. awesome. so i went out to the cyber and bought a chicken for the next day's lunch. when i got back the family was there, but there was nothing special about this, my last day. i hung out with khadija and the new baby and everyone else, but i was quite shocked that no one seemed to care or notice that i was leaving!

the following morning was the same, everyone went about their business as usual and i felt a bit lost. i made one more round and said some final goodbyes, and my host sister gave me some very hastily done henna. i played hopscotch with my little host sis and neighbors.

the whole while i was totally uneffected by thoughts of my departure. i thought 'i'm not even going to cry! this is no big deal!' i ate a final snack with some of the family and then it was time for me to make my 6pm bus. i grabbed my stuff with the help of khadija, aicha, tati and neighbor girl noura and we started for the bus.

just about as soon as we left the house i felt a sudden and drastic change within. on the short walk to the bus it was all i could do to hold in my tears. 'i'm leaving....forever' whoa. we were a bit early to the bus, but it was no time at all until i was crying uncontrollably and so were my host sisters. we hugged and kissed and told each other how much we would miss each other. then a bit of calm as we continued to wait. then as it was time to board the flood gates opened again and we repeated the process.

tati [my 9 year old host sis whom i love to death] was having an especially hard time and that of course only made the whole thing more difficult for me. finally i managed to get on the bus and took my seat, still crying as we start to pass through town.

just as we start to leave town, i notice a big black cloud of women on the side of the road. as we pull closer they are all waiving their arms and yelling [of course this is not the usual behavior of a conservative berber woman]. the bus driver thinks maybe someone will be boarding, but i know better as i leap from my seat and sprint to the door.

crying now even more hysterically i jump off the bus and run into the arms of my very best friends. everyone is crying, no one can even speak we just hug and kiss and cry and cry. the bus beeps its horn and i know it's time to go. with a final goodbye i run back to the bus where the other passengers are staring at me as if i'm some sort of alien creature.

it took a good half hour on the bus for me to somewhat recover from this traumatizing departure. and the next 4 hours were spent in reflection of what had just occured.

when i left america in 2005 it was sad. the goodbyes were difficult and i questioned whether i was making the right move. but it was a timed goodbye. a goodbye for two years. a departure that was not permanent, but very short lived in relation to the average life. those goodbyes were a walk in the park.

the goodbyes i said that day were by no means temporary. they were forever goodbyes, and these are significantly more painful. indescribable really, but a bit like a bit of your heart pulled out. this piece will never be replaced. this piece is in morocco.

of course i plan to call and write and visit [and i will], but it will never be the same. i'll never again be living there, just down the road from a cooking lesson or unlimited cups of tea, cookies, and laughter with these incredible people. never again will tati show up unannounced at my door for an afternoon of popcorn and tom and jerry. nope, these are not timed goodbyes.

leaving rabat and my 'boyfriend' mohamed was equally painful, but i dont think i have the energy to go into all that right now.

i spent 27 incredible months in morocco and i'm so greatful for every second.

thank you mohamed, habiba, zaina, fadma, naima, mamass, naima, aicha, hicham, abdelfettah, youness, boubaker, said, dalila, ahmed, hasna, ayoub, nadia, ijou, saida, zahara, all my soccer girls, asma, asma, khadija, khadija, khadija, aicha, mohamed, amina, tati, senna, brahim, noura, houssine, mourad, oumayma, and so many others. you'll always be in my heart.

full circle...an odd experience

Interesting how life interferes and the next thing you know three months have passed. today is the 8th, and i leave for the capital on the 25th. For those of you who struggle with math, that leaves me with only 17 daysl left. 17 days!

This weekend brought my replacement for a visit. Yes, I will be replaced and hopefully all of my time, energy and work was not for naught. Her arrival stirred up all kinds of thoughts and emotions. exactly 2 years ago i too came on my site visit. I was shown around by my predecessor and was generally very excited and overwhelmed to finally see the place where i would live for 2 whole years.

It seems like just yesterday and at the same time so long ago. This time it was my turn to do the showing. I'm sad at the thought of leaving all of my friends and work with someone new, and yet so proud of what i've been able to accomplish and to be able to leave her with so much. On my visit i was able to see and carry-on one activity, and my replacement was able to take part in four. Girls soccer, english classes, youth and women's clubs, and the preschool class at the women's center. She met all of the people she will need to continue these activities and is really excited to begin.

She even plays soccer! The transition from me to her will be a smooth one and i'm really thankful for that. this town just may see sustainability yet!

not only does she inherit a town, but also a bike helmet!

The past two years have been full of ups and downs. depression, loneliness, diarrhea....i've been there. but i can't think of anything more fufilling i could have done with my time. the ups have far outweighed the downs and it's been an incredible learning experience.

I'm thankful for every day, every friend, every cup of mint tea. i'm thankful for the support i've constantly received from everyone at home and for my fellow volunteers who are now lifelong friends. I'm thankful for the laughter, the dancing, even the tears. i'm thankful that i've made it.

As for the future, well it is certainly coming at me at full speed. I've begun the job search and am feeling quite optimistic, but that doesn't make the process any easier. and every moment i spend thinking about the next step, i can't help but feel like i wasting the little time i have left here.

17 days to say goodbye.

boubaker aka 'bob' is one of my best students!

hanging out in the Youth Center

last spring i helped the preschool teaches write a letter requesting toys from an association up north. they came!

some time away

As opposed to trying to write the past few months of my time here, i thought i could do a little picture diary. I left my site on June 24th and traveled around the north for a few weeks before spending a week in the capital for a little relaxation. I'm now starting my third week at summer camp!

Hope you enjoy the pics.


I did a tour of the northern part of the country, and this was my first stop. We'll call it beatiful coastal town number 1!



This is the main square of the same town. The entire north has tons of spanish architecture and i fell in love!



Coastal town number two has the cleanest walled city i have seen in this country. Spotless! Here are some villas with views of the ocean.



The same city, from where i sat and waited for the sunset.



One of the most incredible sunsets i've seen. no obstructions to my view, amazing!



Coastal city number 3 is a real city and a place i could actually live. It had a really relaxing vibe and made me feel like i was in a whole different country!


In the old city, a great people watching location.


Most cities turn old palaces into museums, and this was one of the best i've seen.


This is the garden in the American Legation museum. There are letters here from George Washington from the Sultan. Did you know that this country was the first in the world to recognize America as a country when the Declaration of Independence was signed?


People sell stuff all over the place, but only in the north did i see these crazy hats. They were everywhere and many extremely festive!


A kid in the old city near a cool stoop. I tried waiting for him to leave, but i guess he was pretty happy with his spot.



A short ride from city number 3 took us to the Northern most point in africa on the atlanic ocean. here it is!



In the same area, we find the "cave of hercules." Mythology claims that this is where hercules was when he separated Africa and Europe into two continents!



This is me, with my feet in the mediteranian sea! It was the first time i'd ever seen it, how exciting!

Spices for sale. doesn't it seem like it would just all topple down if someone bought some?

Looking out a window of an old palace, the view of the mountain side town in gorgeous!

This is the hotel i stayed in, beautiful and perfect location. only 6 dollars!

An alley stairway in the blue city

Now we move to Summer English Language camp. I will spend a month here working 2 sessions. this is AbdelAli, one of my favorites who returned for a second year! He is one of the most talented people i have ever met.

Me and Mohamed, the cutest little thing ever. He won my library reading race.

We had an "american games" night and they loved the dizzy bat game!
Some girls show off the traditional clothing of their region
Hmza, such a sweetie!

Habiba, such a beautie!

And little Ayoub, the cutest of all.