Breaking the fast in Alex

I don't think I've gone into a lot of detail about Ramadan in my posts, but hopefully most of you know by now that Ramadan is the fasting month in the Islamic calendar. For an entire month, from sun up to sun down, Muslims are to refrain from eating, drinking, smoking and sexual activity. The sacrifice a time of reflection and prayer as well as a chance to bring the faster closer to God.

When the sun sets, a call goes out from all of the mosques signaling that it is time to break the fast (lftur). I experienced three Ramadan's in Morocco, but never experienced anything like I have in Egypt at sundown.

Last thursday a group of us hung out downtown after class and just happened to be wandering the streets as people were preparing for the lftur. The city was all a buzz and smelled of meats roasting over the fire. During the walk, I stopped to buy a nightgown. Me and another person in our group chatted with them for a few minutes and they asked us to join them to break the fast. We didn't accept as our group had moved on, but that was just one of many invitations we received from complete strangers as we continued our walk.

An incredible thing about breaking the fast in Egypt is that after a day of fasting, no one is to go without breakfast. Tents, tables and chairs are set up in places all over the city and everyone can go and eat for free. Not only Muslims, but non-muslims, tourists, anyone at all is allowed to take part in the feast.

After leaving the clothing shop were were invited into one such free breakfast area. Unfortunately, they had run out of food, but they insisted that we return at an earlier time the next day to partake. One man, feeling bad that we'd not eaten, led us for 15 mins to the restaurant where we'd end up eating.

A few days later we went on another excursion to downtown Alex and were hopping into taxis to go home just as the call went out to break the fast. "Won't you break the fast?" I asked the taxi driver (Why else would he still be in his cab and driving me home?). He responded- Of course! During the 30 minute ride to our apartments I found out what he meant.

During lftur, men and children stand all over the streets with dates, juice and other foods which they throw into the passing cars as they drive by. People, after fasting all day, stand in the middle of the road (often in various precarious positions!) to throw bags of free food at complete strangers passing by.

It amazes me that there are people who spend their days creating tiny bags of food to hand to those still driving when they should be eating. To be shocked at the level of kindness- what a great feeling.

Settling in Alexandria

What a week!

I left Detroit on Friday the 20th of August on a plane to JFK. At JFK, I hopped over to EgyptAir for an 11 hour direct flight to Cairo. I was pumped and only nervous about one thing- finding my way, alone, from Cairo to Alexandria. As luck would have it, I sat on the plane next to a man who lives in New Jersey, but is originally from Alexandria and was on his way to visit family.

While a bit too chatty for my liking on the plane, this very kind man offered to let me follow him to Alexandria. At the airport, I bought my visa from a bank, grabbed my luggage and exchanged some money before catching the bus. The bus ride was long, but I was absolutely exhausted so it was a great opportunity to get a little sleep.

Once I got to the bus station in Alexandria, I was supposed to call the folks from TEFL to pick me up, but it was almost time for lftor (breakfast- it is Ramadan and everyone is fasting!). I did not have easy access to a phone and was also afraid that if I did call, I'd have to wait for a ride until after lftor so I decided to hop in a taxi and hope for the best.

About 30 minutes, 70 egyptian pounds and one stop for an english speaker later, I arrived at the TEFL accommodations. I was very pleasantly surprised by our apartments (pictures to come in a later post). I share a two bedroom place with Amanda from Botswana. Amanda has already completed her 4 week certificate course, but stuck around to do an internship and study Arabic. It's great to have a roomie who knows the ropes!

Amanda and me

The next day (Sunday- first day of the week), we had our first day of classes. The apartments are about 40 mins away from where we have class, so we all hop in some vans at 9 am. Classes begin at 10 and go until 4:30.

The school in Stanley, Alexandria

The other students in the class are super cool. Mostly Americans, but we do have three people from England, one from Holland, one from Venezuela, one from Saudi Arabia and one Egyptian. 17 people total- you do the math. Classes are interesting and even challenging (grammar!). Aside from grammar, we're learning some Phonology (the study of sounds in a language), classroom management, lesson planning and more. To pass the course, I'll have to pass a phonology test, a grammar test, complete various assignments and do 6 hours of teaching practice.

We've gotten through one week so far and have already established a good routine. Morning classes are followed by a 10 minute walk to find a delicious and cheap lunch (falafel or fuul sandwiches for less than 20 cents), then afternoon classes, then a swim in the Mediterranean Sea when we get back to the apartments. Shower after the swim, dinner, then internet and bed. A few nights we've also gone out to a nearby bar where they serve two types of beer (Heineken and Egyptian Stella) and shots of Gin (sick!).

Swimming in the Sea at sunset.

For more photos of the Mediterranean Sea, see my photo album on FB here:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2466003&id=12102478&l=5188b3fddd

Last night (our equivalent of Friday night) a group of us decided to stay downtown after class and try to take in some of the sights. We were dropped off at the Library of Alexandria. This is a pretty incredible building designed to look like the sun rising out of the sea. Around the outside, words are written in every known language on earth. Very impressive and we were pumped to go inside. Too bad it had closed early due to Ramadan- drat! More on that when I go back.

Library of Alexandria

From the library, we walked a few miles down the corniche (street along the water). It was a great walk with lots to see and photograph. As we got towards the end of the street, we took a turn inland and got to see the real heart of Alexandria. Small streets lined with markets and decorated with sparkles for Ramadan, people bustling all around us. It was almost time for the call to prayer (signaling time to break the fast) so food was cooking and everyone was getting excited to eat. Some guys where I bought a nighty for 15 pounds (less than 3 dollars) invited us to break the fast with them, but we continued on.

On the streets during lftur

After a few other failed attempts to get food (one place was full, another out of food) we were led through some crazy streets and came out at a restaurant described by our guidebooks as having the best seafood in Alexandria. The books were not kidding- this food was absolutely incredible. You pay per kilo of fish and the price includes a variety of salads and water. We choose three huge sea bass (three kilos!) and they basically slice it open, season it and add red and hot peppers before throwing it on the grill. Absolutely the most delicious fish I've ever tasted.

For more pictures of downtown Alexandria, check out my FB photo album:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2466670&id=12102478&l=1963ccd7a1

That brings me to today or our equivalent of saturday. I slept in and have been taking it easy this morning, but am hoping to go into town this afternoon. More to come!